House Plants Blog

Sep 7, Calathea 'White Star' Houseplant Care

Mon, 07 Sep 2026 11:25:09 -0700

Calathea 'White Star' is a gorgeous cultivar sporting stunning white-striped foliage. Just like members of the prayer plant family, it closes its leaves at night like hands in prayer.

Discover how to grow 'White Star' indoors, including how much sunlight, water, and humidity this tropical beauty wants, plus when to repot and more.

Image © Ilja Enger Tsizikov | Dreamstime

Get to Know Calathea Majestica 'White Star'

Known botanically as Calathea majestica 'White Star', this rare beauty has origins in the rainforests of South America. It is an evergreen perennial that grows in a clump-forming, upright habit.

'White Star' is a stylish addition to any home. Dazzling white stripes across each leaf are separated by a bold green midrib. Some plants have a blush of pink across their leaves.

The key to keeping your houseplant happy indoors is to keep it moist, warm, and near indirect light. Think about its native rainforest habitat, where it is bathed in a mist and 70°C/21°C temps nearly all year.

Short of turning your home into a misty rainforest, there are simple ways to raise humidity for your tropical plants. You can set a small plant on a wet pebble tray. If your home is really dry (especially during the winter months) your best solution is to use a cool-mist room humidifier.

How big will Calathea 'White Star' get? Mature houseplants will reach a height of about 2 ft (60 cm). It will spread about as wide as it is tall.

Are Calatheas toxic? According to the ASPCA they are non-toxic, making Calathea 'White Star' pet-safe.

Captivating Collection

Grouping tropical plants together creates a humid micro-climate. How? As plants take up moisture through their roots, they transpire moisture through their leaves into the air.

Set your Calathea close to other humidity-loving houseplants, such as orchids, bromeliads and ferns. Calatheas will thrive in their company... and you'll love your indoor tropical plant collection.

Calathea 'White Star' Problems, Solutions and Answers

Brown leaf tips are caused by dry air. You have a few options for raising humidity for your houseplants. The most efficient way is to use a cool-mist room humidifier. A bathroom is sometimes a good location for tropical houseplants because of the extra humidity; but only if it has enough light streaming in. It's a good idea to use a humidity gauge near Calathea 'White Star', rather than guess. Indoor air can become extremely dry in winter without our noticing it.

Leaves not unfolding? Calatheas that keep their leaves upright night and day are likely too dry. This tropical native likes moisture -- don't forget to water and maintain humidity around it.

Leaf burn/dried leaves and stems are sometimes caused by a buildup of mineral salts from fertilizers. You may also notice white crusty deposits on the surface of the soil. If you've overfertilized your plant, leach it by slowly pouring lukewarm water over the soil a few times, allowing the water to drain out the drainage holes. Leaching once or twice a year will prevent unsightly leaf damage; it only takes a few minutes to do and you'll have a much healthier houseplant.

Something bugging your plant? Watch for webbing between stems and under the leaves. Spider mites are attracted to dry conditions, making them more of a threat during the winter months when indoor humidity drops. Isolate an infested plant and treat it immediately. Unfortunately, by the time you notice webbing, the infestation may be severe. Cut off badly damaged leaves and dispose of them.

Wondering whether to repot? When Calathea 'White Star' outgrows its pot, move it up to a pot 1- to 2-inches larger. Spring is the best time, when the plant is starting its most vigorous time of growth. Don't overpot -- a common mistake with houseplants. Why? A too-large pot will hold too much water, which may lead to root rot. Always use a pot with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.

Calathea 'White Star' Care Tips

Light: Bright, indirect sunlight. Hot, direct sun will cause leaves to turn brown.

Water: Aim to keep the potting mix lightly moist; never allow it to dry out. It's a good idea to pot your Calathea in a container with drainage holes so you can water thoroughly without drowning your plant. Calatheas are sensitive to fluoride and salts in tap water, so I recommend using distilled water or rainwater. Also, remember to use lukewarm water because cold water is a shock to tropical houseplants.

Humidity: Calatheas thrive in high humidity. Aim to maintain at 60-70% relative humidity year-round. For best results, use a cool-mist room humidifier.

Temperature: Average to warm room temperatures (65-80°F/18-27°C) year-round.

Soil: Peat moss-based potting mix that contains perlite for fast drainage. African violet potting mix is ideal.

Fertilizer: Feed once a month spring through fall with a balanced (such as 10-10-10 NPK) water-soluble fertilizer.

Propagation: Leaf cuttings can be taken in spring. Keep cuttings warm, moist and in indirect sunlight for best results. Clumps can be divided and potted separately. Calatheas are not easy to divide, so wait until the plant is large before you try separating it.

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Sep 1, Florist Chrysanthemum Care: How to Grow Chrysanthemum morifolium

Tue, 01 Sep 2026 07:29:50 -0700

Florist Chrysanthemum has big, beautiful flowers crowning a mass of dark-green foliage. Known botanically as Chrysanthemum morifolium, this flowering houseplant will stay fresh for several weeks. With this guide, you'll discover what type of light, how much water, what temperature it wants, and more.

Photo: aprilrainstudio / istockphoto

Get to Know Your Indoor Chrysanthemums

Native to China, this is a member of the Asteraceae family, along with daisies, sunflowers and marigolds.

Chrysanthemum gets its name from the Greek words chryos, meaning gold, and anthemom, meaning flower. These "golden flowers" are now available in shades of pink, purple, red, burgundy, white, and yes -- golden yellow.

How big does this indoor Chrysanthemum get? It's typically at a height 12-24 in (30-60 cm) tall; however, commercial growers treat plants with chemicals to stunt their growth, keeping them compact.

Florist chrysanthemums are not hardy for growing outdoors in cold climates. Tender potted mums sold in florist shops want to stay indoors with you.

Choose a plant with plenty of buds that are just beginning to open. If your florist chrysanthemums came with a plastic covering over the pot, remove it. Your mums need plenty of air circulation. Plus, you don't want to block the nursery pot's drainage holes.

Green Thumb Tip

The secret to keeping blossoms fresh for several weeks is to keep mums in a cool place and well-watered.

You can cover a plain nursery pot by slipping it into a cachepot -- a decorative pot without drainage holes. I put pebbles in the bottom of cachepots to keep the pot above the drainage water.

Growing Mums Indoors: Problems, Solutions and Answers

Buds won't open? Give your plant plenty of sunshine to ensure blooming. Flowering plants may look cheerful near an inside wall or in a sunless hallway, but they won't bloom well there. Give them light.

Wilted plants are likely thirsty. Florist mums are often root-bound -- their pots are packed with roots, with little soil to hold water. You can revive dry roots by setting the pot in a pan of water for at least 30 minutes, allowing it to drink up, while also watering from the top. Keep a close eye on mums; you may need to water every day or two.

Something bugging your plant? Aphids sometimes arrive with a newly purchased plant. Green and wedge-shaped, they are tiny and difficult to spot, but they can do a lot of damage. Look for them along the stems and undersides of leaves. Treat any infestation right away to prevent them from invading your other houseplants.

Are mums toxic? Yes -- Chrysanthemum leaves are poisonous. Keep out of the reach of children and pets that may play with or ingest this plant.

Instant Style for Your Home

Lend any room fresh, seasonal color with a potted mum. Or group a few pots for a big splash of color.

Florist chrysanthemums are also a stand-out among your green houseplants. Those bright bunches of blooms are even more showy when surrounded by big-leaved dieffenbachia, split-leaf philodendron and monstera. Contrasting sizes, forms and textures complement each other when displayed together.

Temporary Houseguest

Give your plant a cool, bright location, and you can expect blooms for about 6 to 8 weeks.

Unfortunately, it's difficult to get mums to rebloom, so it is treated as an annual and tossed out after the blooming season is over. You can put your plant outdoors in the spring to possibly get another season of blooms, but it will never look as good. Don't feel guilty about discarding your plant when it's past its prime.

Photo: Angela / istockphoto

Beautiful Air-Cleaners

Although temporary houseguests, beautiful florist chrysanthemums work hard at removing air pollutants found in homes caused by the chemicals in upholstery, paint and carpet.

Florist mums are one of the best flowering plants for purifying indoor air of formaldehyde, benzene and ammonia. Find out more about air-cleaning house plants.

Florist Chrysanthemum Care Tips

Light: Bright light. Flower buds may fail to open without enough sunlight. Direct morning light is fine, but keep your mums out of direct afternoon sun because they can't take the heat.

Water: Keep soil evenly moist at all times. Foliage will wilt and flower buds won't open if the roots are too dry. Flowering plants are thirsty, so check the soil often.

Humidity: Average room (around 40-50% relative humidity). If indoor air is dry, try one of these easy ways to increase humidity for your houseplants.

Temperature: Cool temperatures 55-65°F/13-18°C; Flowers may not last as long if kept in a warm room.

Soil: Peat moss based potting mix

Fertilizer: N/A

Propagation: Stem cuttings

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Aug 29, Guzmania Lingulata 'Scarlet Star' Plant Care

Sat, 29 Aug 2026 14:38:36 -0700

Guzmania lingulata 'Scarlet Star' is one of the most common house plants from the Bromeliad family. Other popular cultivars have bright yellow or orange bracts.

New varieties of Guzmania lingulata are introduced all the time. Choose what you like -- they're all spectacular. 'Orange Star' has long-lasting orange bracts. 'Luna' is a popular variety with mauve bracts. 'Rana' is a newer hybrid with a slightly larger flower spike than the species, in orange-red.

Get to Know Guzmania Lingulata

Leathery, glossy green leaves grow in a rosette that creates an urn which must be filled with water at all times. This is the only plant I know of that should be watered in its center and will not rot.

After 3 or 4 years, 'Scarlet Star' produces a flower head made of bright red bracts that rise in the plant's center and last about 5 months. Its small, white true flowers are almost hidden by the bracts.

This beauty grows on trees in its native Central and South America. It's known as an epiphyte -- perched on branches, where it receives indirect sunlight through the rainforest canopy.

Bromeliads add dazzling color and a tropical feel to any room. Get one for your office, too, and make a bold statement. It grows well under the fluorescent light of offices. Keep it out of direct sunlight to prevent the bract color from fading.

How big does it get? This Bromeliad will grow up to 12 in (30 cm) tall. Its leaves can reach up to 18 in (45 cm) long.

Guzmania lingulata won't need repotted until it produces offsets. In fact, keeping it in a small container helps promote blooming.

If you want to cover up a plain nursery pot, just slip it in a decorative container. It's a good idea to place some small rocks in the bottom of the container to keep the nursery pot above the drainage water. Bromeliads have small root systems and won't tolerate soggy soil.

Plants bloom once and then die, a slow process that takes up to 3 years. Propagating its offsets -- or pups -- that grow at the base of the plant will give you a collection that blooms year after year.

Guzmania Lingulata Problems, Solutions and Special Helps

Brown leaf tips may be caused by dry conditions. See "Water" tips below. It also can be a symptom of dry air.

Dry, brown patches on leaves are caused by hot, direct sunlight. Remember, this rainforest native likes indirect light.

No flowers? Bromes that are more than 3 years old that fail to flowers probably aren't getting enough light. Move your houseplant to a brighter location, but keep it from direct sunlight.

Something bugging your Bromeliad? Watch for brown, disc-like insects called scale, along the stems and undersides of leaves. Another pest to watch for is mealybugs that look like white, fuzzy patches that cluster at the base of leaves. Isolate any infested houseplant and treat it right away. These tiny insects multiply quickly, causing harm by sucking plant juices.

Image Anthro / istockphoto.com

Guzmania Lingulata 'Scarlet Star' Growing Tips

Light: Put this tropical house plant in a bright location out of direct sun. Sun exposure can cause brown spots on leaves. It will thrive in the bright fluorescent light of an office.

Water: Water the center of the rosette and keep 1 in (2.5 cm) of water in its urn (center of the rosette) at all times. Bromes are sensitive to the chlorine and fluoride in tap water. Use distilled water or rainwater and allow it to warm up to room-temperature first. Houseplants hate cold water! Water soil just enough to keep the roots barely moist. Empty old water from the urn every week and promptly replace it with fresh water.

Humidity: Prefers high humidity. Try to maintain at least 50% relative humidity near your Bromeliad; the most efficient way to do this is to set your plant on a humidity tray or use a cool-mist room humidifier.

Temperature: Average to warm (65-80°F/18-27°C). Keep your plant out of cold blasts from windows and doors during the winter. Also shield it from heat/AC vents.

Soil: Bromeliad or orchid potting mix. Or mix equal parts fine-grade fir bark and all-purpose potting mix.

Fertilizer: Feed monthly spring through summer with a balanced water-soluble fertilizer diluted by half in the plant's urn, then empty it after 1 week and fill with water. Or mist the leaves with a weak foliar fertilizer once a month.

Propagation: Cut off the offsets (pups) when they reach 3 in (7.5 cm) tall and plant them in fresh, barely moist potting mix. Maintain high humidity for the pups for the first month.

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Aug 27, Spider Plant Care - How to Grow Chlorophytum Comosum Indoors

Thu, 27 Aug 2026 09:35:14 -0700

Chlorophytum comosum, commonly known as spider plant, is an impressive house plant for beginners. It's easy to care for, tolerates average room conditions, and is easy to propagate.

Spider plants look best in hanging baskets or on tall stands or pedestals to show off their trailing foliage. Their variegated leaves and graceful, fountain-like growing habit add a beautiful contrast and texture when grouped with other house plants.

Get to Know Spider Plant

The slender, arching leaves are dark green with a creamy white stripe. Leaves grow from a central crown and can reach up to 1 ft (30 cm) long. Give this plant plenty of light for the best leaf color. Plants grown in low light may lose their variegation.

When less than a year old, spider plant produces small, white flowers on the tips of wiry, upright stems, called runners. The runners are soon weighted down with plantlets giving it a spidery appearance.

These plantlets -- often called "babies" -- are easy to propagate, giving you an ongoing supply of plants. For sure success, choose young, small plantlets when they begin to develop roots for propagating because older plantlets will root slowly. (See "How to Propagate" below for all the how-tos.)

Spider plant readily grows plantlets that are easy to propagate. Photo © Bogdan Sonyachny

How to Propagate Spider Plants

Spider plants are easy to propagate by potting a plantlet into a separate pot. Here's how:

Set a small pot filled with damp potting mix next to the parent plant. Sink a new plantlet into the soil of the small pot, so that the root buds are barely covered. You may need to use a bent paperclip to hold the plantlet in place.

It should root in 2-3 weeks. After that time, sever it from the parent plant.

Spring is the best time for propagation, when the spider plant is beginning its most vigorous time of growth.

Spider Plant Problems, Solutions and Special Helps

Repot in spring when the plant has outgrown its pot. If you see roots growing out of the drainage holes, it's time to pot up. For the best growth and flowering, use a pot that's only 1 to 2 inches larger than the old one. Remember to always use a pot with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil, which can lead to root rot.

No blooms? Spider plants like to be slightly root-bound and will flower and produce plantlets best when grown in a smallish container. Also, take it easy on the fertilizer -- too much will produce a lot of leaves, but no flowers and plantlets.

Brown leaf tips seen on this plant may be a symptom of hot, dry air or dry soil. Or may be caused by fluoride, often present in tap water. Use distilled water, rainwater, or allow tap water to sit overnight so that the chemicals in the water will dissipate. Snip off brown leaf tips with scissors, if you want, to keep the plant looking neat.

Something bugging your plant? Watch for scale insects. These tiny pests look like brown discs that attach themselves to the leaves and stems. They can be scraped off the leaves. Isolate an infested houseplant to prevent them from moving on to your other indoor plants.

Buy a Spider Plant

This is one of the best plants for improving air quality indoors. It has one of the top removal rates of formaldehyde from tainted indoor air.

You'll find a couple types available. 'Vittatum' is the most common variety, featuring a central white stripe on its foliage. 'Variegatum' has broader green leaves with reverse variegation: a green central stripe with white margins. 'Bonnie' sports curly leaves.

Spider Plant Care Tips

Origin: South Pacific and South Africa

Height: Plants grow up to 1 ft (30 cm) tall, with stems trailing to 3 ft (90 cm) in length.

Light: Give your spider plant bright, indirect light to maintain the variegation on the leaves. Keep plant out of direct sunlight because it can scorch the foliage, leaving dry, brown patches.

Water: Keep soil lightly moist in spring and summer, when spider plant is actively growing. In fall and winter, allow the top 1-inch (2.5 cm) to dry before watering again. If your tap water contains fluoride, use distilled or rainwater to prevent brown leaf tips on your plant.

Humidity: Aim to maintain 45% indoor humidity year-round. If the leaves turn brown and crispy, raise the humidity around it. This is easy to do. Set the planter on a humidity tray or use a cool-mist room humidifier near the plant.

Temperature: Average room temps 65-75°F/18-24°C suit this tropical plant perfectly. It doesn't like the cold; don't expose it to anything below 50°F/10°C.

Soil: Peat-moss based potting mix, with added perlite and vermiculite for good drainage, such as African violet mix.

Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring through summer with a water-soluble fertilizer diluted by half. Don't feed in the fall and winter months, when growth is slow.

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Aug 26, Rex Begonia House Plant Care

Wed, 26 Aug 2026 13:11:35 -0700

Rex begonia houseplants are cherished for their dramatic colorful and textured leaves. Hundreds of hybrids are available, each one captivating on its own. Fortunately, we don't have to choose just one. These fancy-leafed begonias are breathtaking when displayed together.

In this guide, you'll discover how often to water, when to fertilize, what to do when your begonia goes dormant (don't give up on it!), plus how to propagate these beauties for more houseplants.

Get to Know Rex Begonias

Known botanically as Begonia rex, this is a long-time favorite of house plant lovers. It is native to Southeast Asia and India, where it thrives in the year-round warmth and humidity.

These fancy-leafed begonias produce dramatic, wing-shaped leaves streaked, veined, or splashed in shades of silver, pink, purple, cream, green, red, or burgundy.

Small flowers may grow on tall stems. It's up to you whether you want to keep them. Flowers use the plant's energy, which is better used to grow those magnificent leaves. If you want, you can pinch off the flower stems to encourage larger leaves.

This begonia is rhizomatous, growing from a thick, fleshy rhizome that grows just below the surface of the soil. Repot in spring when the rhizome outgrows the pot. Because rhizomes have shallow roots, a shallow pot will do.

How big does rex begonia get? It has an upright growth habit, and may grow up to 1 ft (30 cm) tall, depending on the variety.

Rex begonia can be difficult to grow because of its need for high humidity. Dry, brittle leaves are a symptom of dry air. A terrarium, Wardian case or glass cloche may be just the solution for your humidity-loving rex begonias.

Begonia Rex Varieties

There are 100s of hybrids to choose from. Some are upright, but most are low-growing. Choose the one you like...they're all spectacular.

Some of the many popular named varieties include: 'Merry Christmas' in red and green... 'Fireworks' is stunning with silvery green, black and purple markings... 'Escargot' (shown at bottom) is popular for its snail-like spiral-shaped leaves.

Dwarf types are ideal for dish gardens and terrariums.

Rex Begonia Problems and Solutions

Dropped leaves? Fancy-leafed begonias sometimes drop their leaves and become dormant in the winter. If this happens, cut off the withered leaves, stop watering, and enclose the plant in a plastic bag. Keep it at 60°F/16°C until new growth appears, in approximately 6-10 weeks. Then continue with normal care.

Dry, crispy leaves may be a symptom of dry soil, dry air or direct sunlight. Keep rex begonia in bright, indirect light and boost the humidity around it.

Yellow leaves are caused by overwatering. It's a good idea to use a small pot with drainage holes. Water thoroughly, then empty drainage tray. If you want to use a cachepot (a pot without drainage holes), slip a plain nursery pot into the cachepot. Put pebbles in the bottom of the cachepot to keep the inner pot above the drainage water.

Spots on leaves are typically fungal-related. Spots with yellow halos are bacterial leaf spot. Tan spots are a symptom of botrytis fungus that attacks plants in cool, wet conditions. Cut off affected leaves and increase air circulation around your plant. Warm sunshine will help prevent fungus.

Something bugging your begonia? Check your plant for aphids (they're attracted to soft, new growth) and fungus gnats (that are drawn to wet, peaty potting mixes). Treat any infestation right away. Don't use an insecticide spray on rex begonias because it will damage them.

Is rex begonia poisonous? Yes -- it contains calcium oxalate that is extremely toxic to cats and dogs. It's not a good choice for a home with curious pets that may play with or chew on plants.

Image credit: Tamara Kulikova / istockphoto

Rex Begonia Care Tips

Light: Bright light, but no direct midday sun in summer, which can scorch the leaves. Thrives under fluorescent light, which will help these fancy-leafed begonias keep their color and variegation.

Water: Keep soil evenly moist at all times, but be careful not to overwater because the rhizomes are prone to rot in soggy soil. Avoid getting water on leaves because water may cause bacterial leaf spot. Yellow leaves are a symptom of soggy soil.

Humidity: High humidity is a must. If the relative humidity drops below 50%, stand the pot on a tray of wet pebbles, or use a small humidifier near your plant. Do not mist because water can cause spots to form on leaves. Dry air can cause dry, brittle leaves.

Temperature: Average room temperatures (65-75°F/18-24°C) all year-round.

Soil: Use a peat-moss based mix with added perlite and/or vermiculite for fast draining, such as African violet potting mix.

Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring through fall with a balanced (such as 10-10-10 NPK) water-soluble fertilizer at half the recommended rate on the package. Stop fertilizing dormant plants.

Propagation: Take leaf cuttings in spring or summer. Cut a healthy, medium-sized leaf with 1-2 in (2.5-5 cm) stem. Poke stem at a 45° angle in moist half-and-half mixture of peat moss and perlite. Enclose the whole thing in a plastic bag to hold in humidity. Keep the cutting in a warm spot (75-80°F/24-27°C) in indirect light. Leaf cuttings usually root in about 3-4 weeks, but it takes about another 4 weeks for plantlets to form. Pot up each plantlet when it has 3 leaves, and cut away the parent leaf.

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